Waking up after Hoi An

Leaving Saigon last Friday I was thinking suddenly that it really is a cool city, maybe I should stay. Indecisiveness is one of the things I love most about myself … NOT. Anyway, from Saigon I flew to Da Nang, the industrial hub of Central Vietnam, not to see it but to get a taxi to Hoi An. Hoi An is a very old trading village along a river at the coast. And tourist heaven, that too. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The streets are tiny and motor traffic is only allowed at night. The old part of town is regulated so any new buildings fit the unique architectural style of the place. In the unique old buildings are endless knick-knack shops full of paintings, postcards, woodcarvings, hats, Chinese lanterns, etc. Restaurants and cafés, truly endless numbers of family tailor shops where you can have anything made for you in a few hours for the right price, every one graced by somebody roaming the street out front saying “come have a look my shop, very cheap…” Anyway, I spent my time in Hoi An in three pursuits. First, hanging out with a friend who I met there three years ago, it was fun to catch up with her again. Second, sitting in cafés drinking iced coffee and iced lemon juice and mango shakes (of course) and sour sop shakes, and most amusingly making the staff laugh at my stilted Vietnamese. And third, I developed a real passion for holding down my chair at the beach. The last night I was in Hoi An I met someone on the beach who wanted to connect me with a job in a resort near there… hmm. I’m still thinking about that!


Drinking jus de papaye and looking at water.



















Beware the local wildlife.















Did I mention the food? The seafood was incredible. You can get a huge plate of salt-butter-garlic mussels brought to your beach chair for like $2.



Vacation. You end up staring at things that no one intended you stare at.









In the end, I am in Hanoi. After three years, the city feels like someone I met long ago, but now don't quite know what to say to. One of my favorite cafes with Japanese food and a great view is gone. On the other hand, several places that I only remember as giant dirty fenced off lots are now fancy new buildings. Haven’t been back to my old neighborhood yet, where I lived when studying here. I will get to that. It is good to be here though, someplace where I might actually stay for awhile.