New to my Shelf

When Broken Glass Floats: Growing Up Under the Khmer Rouge
Chanrithy Him
A memoir from Cambodia, this story is well written and, as you would expect in a story of genocide, sometimes painful to read. The author grew up in a relatively well-educated family in Phnom Penh, whose life was turned upside-down when the Khmer Rouge came to power in 1975. The book is full of dignity and humanity, standing witness to the appalling lack of either from those in power at that time.

Snow on the Moon
Keith Heller
I picked up this book quite randomly at a used bookstore - there is one bookstore in Hanoi with used English books which I found long long ago J . A novel loosely set in a small town in Spain late in World War II, it is written in a style which reminded me of so many English literature ‘classics’ that I’ve read. The impression was strengthened, I think, by the actual book – a high quality paperback that is dog-eared from use and brown from humidity. The story is snowy and mysterious, the strength of a child’s prescient naiveté playing against an adult’s hesitant willingness to be involved.

Catch 22
Joseph Heller
I guess this is one of those classics that I never got to until recently. I thoroughly enjoyed it, and spent a great deal of time laughing while I was reading this book. The story is of a bomber pilot at the end of World War II. The story, however, is in the telling of it. The satire is sharp and irresistible, it’s just been too long since I read something which made me laugh and think at the same time!

The God of Small Things
Arundhati Roy
A beautifully woven story of complex characters, Arundhati Roy’s first novel is transfixing in detail and inexorable in tragedy. It is a novel truly deserving all the praise heaped on it. I’m not sure how it happened that I didn’t read it sooner.

Dragon Fighter: One Woman’s Epic Struggle for Peace with China
Rebiya Kadeer
The endless expanse of the Gobi Desert, paradoxically ancient yet fragile and crumbling remains of Silk Road cities, Kashgar’s incredible carpet bazaar, the cool underground streams of Turpan on a sunny afternoon, a blood-stirring drum and fife sidewalk performance by local boys in Urumqi, the friendly welcoming smiles of new acquaintances, long hours on uncharacteristically (for China) empty trains; these are my memories of Xinjiang, western China. Rebiya Kadeer’s memoir recounts her experiences growing up and her life as a mother, entrepreneur, big business owner, government representative and, eventually, prisoner, in Xinjiang, and finally as a Uyghur activist from the other side of the world. It is an inspiring story of fortitude.

China in Africa
Chris Alden
A technical and analytical look at the rapidly growing influence of China in Africa, economic and otherwise, this book is short and full of data. I appreciate the academic approach to this topic; it seems that most of what I come across to read on this theme, from my Western-centric media consumption habit, is in passing, shallow and frequently inflammatory. Alden presents a well-supported overview of China’s impacts on Africa, as well as exploring the various motivations for this natural expansion of influence and the potential ramifications both for Africans and Chinese.

Wolf Totem
Jiang Rong
This is a truly fascinating novel set in China’s grasslands of Inner Mongolia during the Cultural Revolution. A Chinese student travels to the grasslands to live among the Mongol herdsmen to learn about them and, as usually happens in such cases, to learn about himself. It was written and published in Chinese before being translated, and features a great many philosophical discourses ranging from the respective characteristics of nomadic vs. agricultural societies, the Han Chinese relationship to ethnic minority groups, the impact of development and migration on nature, to, perhaps in the most grandiose interpretation, a general critique of the ‘Chinese character’. It is a very compelling read. While sometimes veering into an overly idealistic view of nomadic life or presenting a simplistically monolithic view of the above-mentioned ‘Chinese character’ (from an outsiders perspective, the diversity of China seems more prominent to me), the fable-like tone of the writing makes it a good read regardless of one’s interpretation.

Ngày Xưa

I was just reading an article about Kashgar which was reminding me of my brief time there. So I put up some pictures and comments from back in the day, to see them click here.

Qini Bagh Report

I am in Kashgar, staying in the Qini Bagh Hotel, which was, in days of yore, the British consulate. The primary purpose of the British consulate, I am told, was to spy on the Russian consulate down the street, and vice versa. I guess there was not much else to do in Kashgar! Anyway, at the moment, days of yore are over and the place offers some overpriced hotel rooms as well as really nice 'dorm' rooms for 40 quai - that would be a round 5 dollars a night.

On the train here from Turpan, I met a group of four Uighur students who study in Urumqi, coming back to Kashgar for the New Year’s break. They spoke English pretty well (and Chinese better than the two Hunanese PLA guys who were my hard-sleeper bunk-mates) and were very friendly, and had a guitar with them on the train... Well, that was a good precursor to this place.

After I checked into my hotel, cleaned up and was ready to go out exploring the town, I meet someone right outside my room door who, after a bit of conversation, offers to take me down the street to a Uighur restaurant for lunch, and proceeds to become essentially my tour guide for the last three days. Her English was better than my Chinese, but I still tried to use my language, as well as the three words of Uighur I've learned (I don't know how to spell them though!)

Saturday I walked around, past the Id Kah mosque, allegedly the second largest mosque ever, although I think that is an exaggeration, maybe the 2nd largest in China... And to People's Square, where you find the second largest (and this one I believe) statue of the great helmsman himself - makes me wonder if Chairman Mao ever even came way out here.

Sunday I went to the 'famous' Sunday Market, which was really cool. Big, crowded, I think about a five block radius was totally packed with people, bikes, donkey carts (yes they use those a lot here), and random sellers of dried lizards, sheep heads, and everything else under the sun (mostly not that startling, but always amusing). The place was, well, really photogenic, hopefully my pictures will come out. They sell every kind of dried fruit imaginable, and hats - the Russian kind with ear flaps (everybody wears them around here) along with lots of other varieties, mostly with fleece (real sheep fur) on the inside and mink or something on the outside, and various disappearing species furs hanging all over the place. One enterprising salesman jumped out from his booth, snatched off my nice warm cotton/thinsulate hat and plopped some hairy white/red thing on my head. I have to say that I have never looked so white - frighteningly Siberian (!) - in my life as when I looked in the mirror then, a big furry fox hat with ear flaps and my (currently rather straggly) goatee, with a few stray sheep hairs sticking out here and there! The cloth section of the place was amazing - a lot of silk and so many brilliant colors, it just made you kind of dizzy that so many rich looking things could be sold in a place that on the surface strikes one as so dilapidated and dusty. Plus they had some red cloth up to block the sun, which made all the colors super vibrant. I kind of breezed through the carpet section pretty quickly, having not enough money to buy anything there and not enough umph to carry anything like that anywhere. Also Sunday I went into the Id Kah Mosque, and had kind of a tour which was really cool and interesting, again the guide, who spoke only Uighur and Chinese, made the experience what it was with boundless friendliness that over-rode my bad Chinese.

Saturday night, my friend's friend invited me to her house for dinner, which was incredible. This is back about forty seven little alleys just big enough for a motorcycle, and we go into this room off of a little courtyard that looks like it is straight out of Lawrence of Arabia or something (me not actually having read that, I have to rely on, well, Hollywood or something to fill in the details) with silk hanging on the walls, the floor is of course carpeted (those things were amazing), a big cabinet on one side with ornate woodcarving and inlaid stuff all over it, a very cozy small stove, and piles of food in the middle to sit around and eat. Unfortunately, that experience was kind of cut off in the bud when we had to leave soon after getting there for reasons which I am still kind of unsure about, but in any case I got to see the inside of a Muslim Uighur house, which I am sure that not many travelers have, and it was amazing. I'm not sure how to better describe it, but it deserves a lot more than I can give it here.

Today I went to yet another museum that had to be opened just for me, and the ticket guy followed me around very scrupulously, I guess to make sure that I didn't steal any of the cultural relics (they were mostly all broken anyway) or take any pictures. The only thing that deserved a picture was the three pots they had that were not broken, and were just sitting on the floor, I would say about 800 gallon capacity or so! I wanted to jump inside one and stick my head out and have a picture of that, but, well, since I couldn't very well fit one in my daypack, and the "no photo" sign was right in front of them, well, it didn't work out! And I went to a couple tombs of famous guys, and another mosque - fun places to visit with my friend more for the sake of using (up) my Chinese and her English than for the places themselves.

Kashgar will be well-remembered as a truly interesting travel spot, as well as the place of numerous incredibly friendly people that I have met here. Ironically, my severely limited Chinese is more impressive here, where most people know Chinese as a second language, than it is in China. The rest of China, I mean. Also, English students here appear to learn English way faster than most Chinese students do, I will not ponder the reasons for that, but it seems to be true (based on my, what, three days here...).

Tomorrow I am on the train to Urumuqi, and still don't have a ticket the rest of the way to Beijing, which I expect to prove a really big problem in Urumuqi, since it is New Year’s here, when everybody and their brother (that would be about 1.4 billion people) are trying to get on trains to go places..., but there is nothing I can do about it now, so I'll try to get some sleep instead!

Xinjiang - Kashgar

Kashgar has some truly friendly peopleA famous and vibrant bazaar

And a colossal statue of Mao Zi Dong