Tuesday, June 27, 2006

All the news, that isn't

Pieces of the news that make me look twice, for whatever reason:
“Dac Nong General hospital completed successfully a risky heart surgery.
Doctors at the hospital removed a 2.7 cm knife from the heart of Dang Nguyen
Hoang Minh, 26, a resident of Quang Tan Commune…”
No mention of how or why there just happened to be a knife in this guys heart.
“Vietnamese flowers exported to Russia”

Dalat, in the south central highlands of Vietnam, the only place I’ve been here that had lakes, hills, evergreen trees, and COOL WEATHER, also is famous for vegetables and flowers, and is exporting roses, lilies, tulips, crysanthemums and carnations to Russia.

And new words always pop up here and there:
"Vietnamese and African educationists sat together in HaNoi yesterday to share
their respective experiences in educational reform and development."

Monday, June 19, 2006

Big news, little news

Here is a link to a very interesting article from the Times on Vietnam-US relations in light of Chinese influence in SE Asia. A topic I read a lot about while I was studying here, it is fascinating and aside from being informative, the article has a good picture of the sea of motorbikes that is pretty much any major street in Ho Chi Minh City, or here in Hanoi. I'm trying to imagine the mess if people start buying Harley's instead of old pseudo-Hondas. And the franchise they mention, Pho 24, is truly something different, that I didn't see here three years ago. In spite of it being compared to Mcdonald's, I actually like it a lot. Less character, more consistent. I guess that is McDonalds...

And, in my small world, I got a job. More on that later after I've actually started working and can talk intelligently about it. I do hope, however, to do better than the $640 per capita income quoted in the above article...

­Ðọc đi làm vui - Read and be happy (VERY loosely, for anybody who actually knows Vietnamese)

Thursday, June 15, 2006

First, there is green space.


GREEN space. Put this photo at the beginning of the next blog, that is where its home is, but it is currently lost.

All the stuff you will see...

... when you come to visit me, in Hanoi.





Once upon a time, roughly July 27th 1048 A.D. at 4:30 in the afternoon, a Golden Buffalo Calf ran wildly in circles and tramped a vast area of ground. You see, the Golden Buffalo Calf (GBC) thought he heard his mother’s call, so he ran south to Vietnam from China where he lived. What the GBC actually heard was the ringing of bronze bell of gargantuantic proportions.


This bell, you see, was made from a mountain of bronze that was given to one Khong Lo, a Vietnamese monk, by the emperor of China in return for some unnamed valiant service. And so, you see, of course, the place where the venerable GBC trampled so energetically naturally gave up the ghost as a trampling place and became a Hồ Tay place, West Lake. This, by the way, is Hồ Tay.






Mid 15th Century, Vietnamese emperor Le Loi wrangled, at a bargain basement price, a magic sword from the heavens and with it he pricked, poked and prodded the Chinese invaders until they left Vietnam. After pricking, poking and prodding for so long he needed a break, so he bought some flowers for his favorite sword and took it for a boat ride on the lake. Suddenly, with loud Shastokovichian music, a giant golden tortoise whizzing by on a jetski reached out and grabbed the sword. The tortoise then won a race with a hare to the bottom of the lake.


Apparently, the bottom of the lake is a geo-political ally of the heavens because the sword was returned to its rightful owners, and the lake is called Hồ Hoan Kiềm, Lake of the Restored Sword.




St. Joseph’s Cathedral – Gothic 1886 style. Right beside a snobby little café with over-priced and over-delicious chocolate brownie with ice cream things.















And, did I mention, you can draw crayon pictures of Gothic brownies on the table covers. The cafe, that is the cafe not the church. How’s that for a conversation starter?














1911 French opera house where, on 16 Aug 1945, the takeover of Hanoi was announced by the Viet Minh, which is known as the August Revolution.


Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum has Bac Ho (except when he is in Russia for a facelift), it has square space, it is surrounded by park-like quiet (green) space and countless old French buildings used for government offices.



You’re in Vietnam, always more green space…

All the information and fluff is compliments of some books I have, my Vietnamese History class so long ago, and a highly unstable imagination.

Friday, June 09, 2006

A Walkabout with your Mouth

Not having a job is a bit of a drag. But it has an up side as well – I spend inordinate amounts of time psychotically analyzing pieces of life that no one (with an actual life) would ever bother to think about. Like, for example, an average evening walkabout with street food – is that cost effective? Is it healthy? Or toxic? Or photogenic? Can I talk about it for a whole blog entry without anyone going to sleep on me??

pre p.s. Some of these things I have linked to recipes, just click on the name...

From my apartment to the amusing part of town (where I can buy a newspaper in English, and restaurants have bad English scattered about on the menu, ex. “Beep Steak”) is about a half hour walk at a good pace. Or I can take a cyclo, for about $1.50. Not much faster, but cooler and I can practice Vietnamese with the driver. The conversation invariably includes: Where are you from? How old are you? Are you married? Vietnamese women are very beautiful, yes? My vocabulary does go a bit farther than that, but not all that much farther.




Having bought my newspaper, I am dragged kicking and screaming (irony alert) into the next sinh to place I see. That is fruit shake, as in mango shake, as in I have never been anywhere else in the world where they have so many fruits that are so good, particularly on a hot day (pretty much any day here is hot) when the fruit is mixed with ice and costs $.50. ‘Nuff said.






After reading the first couple articles in the paper and slurping mango, I am called out to the banh bao box on the sidewalk. These are steamed buns, a cousin I expect of baozi, for anybody who has been to China. Stuffed with ground pork, mushroom and onions, they usually also have a quail egg in there somewhere. Sometimes it is a pickled quail egg, or maybe that is just an old quail egg, I’m not sure… They are sold on the sidewalk where they sit neatly stacked inside a glass case. There is a charcoal fire next to it with a big aluminum pail on it, which is piled full, with water in the bottom I guess, since that keeps them steamed and warm. Anyway, all that to say they are highly delicious (ngon qua) and they cost a good $.32.







If banh bao are not exciting enough for the taste buds, then I can go around the corner and get nem chua. Nem chua are, well they look a bit like skinned hot dogs, but they actually taste much better. Pork, I am told. I'm also told that they are made of the ears of pork, plus assorted other stuff. I don’t know, but they come wrapped in banana leaves and newspaper, and (most importantly) with hot sauce to dip them in. I think of them as boneless buffalo wings – you eat them for the sauce (which is worth eating), not for the thing itself.




And finally, a glass of Che gives me energy for the walk home. Not as in Guevara, I see his picture occasionally here but this is something completely different and uncontroversially good. Che is a drink usually made primarily of mung beans. Ice and sugar, of course, I don’t know what else. You can get lots of different flavors, but it usually comes with chunks of beans and jello-like stuff floating in it. I don’t know what it is, only that it is good.


All this would probably set me back about $3.50, or maybe $3.75 with the newspaper. Cost effective indeed. Healthy? Well I do usually have vegetables at least once a day, and fresh fruit pretty often too, so in context I will declare it nutritionally balanced. Toxic only occasionally, if you mix the wrong kinds of sinh to’s together it can be pretty brutal on the stomach. I’ve been warned about bad nem chua but have never had any problems with it myself. Photogenic, well that is all opinion anyway, you tell me.