Thursday, November 05, 2009

Laos - Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang, the former royal capital of Laos, is located on the Mekong like Vientiane, but in the north of the country.
The city is a UNESCO World Heritage Cite and is full of temples.

And it has a large night market, strangely empty when I was there but I assume that it is crowded in high season.



Life on the Mekong:






Tuesday, November 03, 2009

Laos - Wait, what Wat am I in now ??

Wat That Luang









Wat smoke-free (do they have incense patches for the Buddha's, I wonder?)

Wat Sisaket

(yes, it's an ancient Vientiane-style Buddhist fan...)


Sunday, November 01, 2009

Laos - going places

Tuktuks as seen from Victory Arch



Laundry service!

The school bus...

Friday, October 30, 2009

Laos - Patuxay Arch








Wednesday, October 28, 2009

Laos part 1

The Mekong River, from the capital Vientiane


The tourist trap - pizza Lao-style!


SAVE WORLD LIFE - why didn't I buy that shirt? Who could resist?





Wednesday, October 21, 2009

Danang in Typhoon Ketsana

Finally, I have figured out how to make my new computer act like my old computer, and put together my pictures and video from Danang, yeah, like a month ago...


video

Friday, October 02, 2009

I Carry Around Too Many Books ...

The House on Dream Street – Dana Sachs

Stories of an American in Hanoi, from back in the day. “Back in the day” here meaning the 90’s, although similar stories, I have to say, are told by most foreigners who have been here any length of time, about how things were so different “back in the day” when they first arrived here, whenever that was. Anyway, it’s a cool story, for everyone who can’t come visit me and experience the place for yourself (which is, hmm lets see, EVERYBODY, except that one cousin), the least you can do is read a book about it!

Lakota Woman – Mary Crow Dog

Good book, made even more fascinating for me because the author is from Rosebud Reservation, next door to Pine Ridge Reservation where I spent some time "back in the day" :). The kind of things I saw there, and the stories in this book, seem to belong to the ‘rest of the world’ more than to the America that I grew up in. In any case, the book is worth a read, more passionate than articulate, but all the more revealing for that.

Aama in America – Broughton Coburn

The story of an old woman from a Nepali village, travelling in America with a former peace corps volunteer who had become part of her family, so to speak. Shifting plots make the book less than a straight read, but it is full of great quotes, funny and true-to-life both at once.

Unaccustomed Earth – Jhumpa Lahiri

Short stories, it’s been awhile since I read short stories. I like them, and I like these. Its polished writing, but you don’t notice that until afterwards J

Falling Leaves: The Memoir of an Unwanted Chinese Daughter – Adeline Yen Mah

The subtitle pretty much explains this book. Although I started it expecting the same kind of story that I’ve read a hundred times about growing up in 20th Century China, I was eventually pulled into the story, and it became a good read. And, in case I hadn’t thought about it recently, which I had, it reminded me of what a phenomenally cool family I have!

Wednesday, September 23, 2009

Moving

Back in Hanoi, I am recuperating / re-orienting after a wonderful summer in a cool climate mixing family and travel (and work, of course). Wonderful, although it was a bit long; I decided this summer that my scheduled absence from Vietnam was somewhat longer than it should have been. I’ll have to keep that in mind the next time around so I don’t forget so much Vietnamese!

I arrived in Hanoi late. Wide awake and with my head still in airplaneland, I watched the rice paddies roll by from the taxi, and then the familiar noise and traffic and heat of Hanoi. Arrived at my hotel and had a surprisingly lucid conversation in Vietnamese, not because I particularly wanted to but rather because the staff remembered me from the last time I stayed there, and they couldn’t just let me go off to bed without first reestablishing my Vietnamese credentials.Anyway, I got to my room eventually and slept like a log, jetlag only gets in the way after a day or two.

After a few days of wandering around the Old Quarter I must have sweated off a few kg’s of my summer of excess, and also came down with the flu. This, my Vietnamese friends tell me, is from drinking too many cold drinks (mango shakes, lemonade, ice coffee, ice coconut…). Myself, I tend to think it had more to do with an overzealous approach to the a/c in my hotel room, where I didn’t have to pay the power bill, and perhaps a persistent taste for street food. Either way, coughing, being feverish, and following my [large foreign] runny nose around isn’t any fun, and it being 95 degrees and humid doesn’t make it any better. But, I’m better now, mostly, so enough about that.

I am also back in Vietnamese class J. One of the things I love about Vietnamese class is that it always always makes me feel stupid at least once every class. I think that must be a good thing, in a place where the ability to say “Hi, I’d like an ice coffee” with a good accent inevitably leads to someone saying Wow your Vietnamese is SO good… Anyway, I’m back in a class with the same teacher I had last spring, which is great. The class currently consists of two Korean students, a Japanese student, a Taiwanese student, and me. And since most of the class is discussion, I learn more about those places than I ever really expected to, in Vietnamese class! My teacher clearly has great faith in the value of rabbit trails, which I appreciate beyond words. (My appreciation is especially beyond Vietnamese words, which I couldn’t remember even if what I was trying to say wasn’t beyond them.)

While I very much like that hotel I was staying in, I have now found a place to rent, of the non-hotel variety. My hotel room was 4th floor, natural light from windows on three sides, balcony overlooking an old pagoda with trees, all inside the Old Quarter, with cafes, bia hoi’s and longan fruit all within like a minute’s walk. My ‘house’ is on the first floor with two views, one of a yellow wall across the alley from me, and the other of Grandma’s kitchen/laundry room, which is the courtyard behind my house. One of the prime attributes of my house is that I can walk to class. I had forgotten how convenient that is, how nice it is not to have to drive to get where you are going. Another attribute is that it is dead quiet. Seriously, I think this is the only place I have ever lived in Hanoi where I lie in bed and don’t hear traffic noises all the time. Instead, I hear a small cat yowling with a surprising amount of vigour, for an animal so small. That, and not much else!

I came upon this house thanks to an agent, who, after I saw a couple typical one-room-full-of-amenities-for-foreign-teachers sort of places, found this place for me. More space, fewer amenities. Although I am not complaining about the amenities, after all, the landlady who lives up the alley brings me papaya all the time. I don’t know, do I look thin or sickly? I don’t think so!Anyway, I really like my house. Concrete painted yellow, wooden shutters on the windows, a ramp to roll my motorbike inside my kitchen, and, oh yeah, a kitchen!! Someday soon I will be motivated to buy a rice cooker and actually do something in that kitchen other than make tea and eat papaya.

In the meantime I am back in my place here. ‘My place’ here seems to be a place of constant flux, which I am largely accustomed to, actually. It is also a place with good bánh khúc, and ốc luộc, and sinh tố mãng cầu, and sushi, and mực xao tởi, and, well, you get the idea. Indeed, I think I should go find one of those things now!

Sunday, September 06, 2009

Mấy ngày tháng 8 đi cùng với gia đình


Xe đạp đôi - chú điểu khiện, cháu đạp :)



Thịt dê và rau tươi nương - ngon chết!



Chơi nhạc dân gian

Chương trình đào tạo nhịp điệu cho cháu gái

Mẹ dạy con
Con dạy em

Các đan ông từ Bắc
Mội người vưa nghỉ vưa đi
Nâng cầu vòng sắt
Nhiêu tiếng đồng hồ ngôi trong xe




Các mặt tười, tương lái của gia đình





Wednesday, August 12, 2009

Columbia River Gorge

My lovely trip to Portland was, indeed, centered in Portland - with music and coffee and comaraderie and a free couch to sleep on, how could it be otherwise? But, my pictures seem to be completely from my excursions outside Portland. Not that Portland wasn't photogenic, rather that I had enough other stuff to do I guess. Anyway, here some photos heading up the Columbia River Gorge.



Multnomah Falls


Bridge of the Gods - Cascade Locks

Mosier section